How to Care for a Bespoke Wool Suit — Complete Guide

At Manhattan Tailors, we often tell clients that commissioning a great suit is only half the equation — caring for it correctly is the other half. Many of the most beautiful bespoke suits we have ever seen came back to us for alterations looking as good as the day they were made, decades later. Here is how their owners achieved that.

After Each Wear: Immediate Steps

As soon as you remove your jacket, hang it on a proper shaped hanger — not a wire hanger, which distorts the shoulders. A heavy wooden or wide-shouldered coat hanger maintains the jacket's shoulder shape. Empty all pockets; the weight of wallet, phone and keys strains the pocket bags and creates lopsided wear over time. Allow the suit to air for at least 24 hours before returning it to storage — wool needs to breathe out the moisture absorbed during wear.

Use a soft clothes brush to brush the suit after each wear, moving in the direction of the nap. This removes surface dirt and dust before it works its way into the fibres, prevents pilling and keeps the fabric looking fresh. Brushing is the single most important daily maintenance habit for extending a suit's life.

Storage: Hanging vs Folding

For long-term storage, hang jackets and trousers rather than folding. Use cedar wood blocks or sachets in your wardrobe to repel moths — wool is vulnerable to moth larvae, which eat keratin in the fibres. Avoid plastic suit bags for long-term storage; they trap humidity and prevent the wool from breathing. Use a breathable fabric or cotton garment bag instead.

Rotate your suits — wearing the same suit every day gives it no time to recover. A suit worn every other day with a 24-hour airing period will last twice as long as one worn daily.

Pressing and Ironing

Wool fibres have a natural memory — light creasing from a day's wear usually hangs out overnight. When pressing is needed, use a tailor's pressing cloth between the iron and the fabric to prevent shine. Steam is your primary tool; a steamer is preferable to an iron for most suits as it relaxes fibres without applying direct heat pressure. Never iron a suit dry — always use steam or a damp pressing cloth.

The lapels of a canvassed bespoke suit should be rolled gently, not pressed flat. Pressing the lapel completely flat destroys the natural roll that gives it its character.

Dry Cleaning: How Often and Where

Dry clean as infrequently as possible — ideally no more than once or twice per year. Dry cleaning solvents degrade wool fibres over time and strip the natural lanolin that keeps the fabric supple. Between dry cleans, spot-clean stains with a clean damp cloth and allow to air dry. For a full refresh without dry cleaning, steam the suit thoroughly — this kills bacteria, relaxes fibres and removes most odours.

When you do dry clean, use a reputable cleaner who understands structured garments. Inform them that the suit is bespoke and fully canvassed — it should not be machine-pressed through a standard form but hand-finished after cleaning.

Moth Prevention and Long-Term Storage

If storing a suit seasonally (e.g. a heavy winter flannel through summer), clean it before storage — moths are attracted to food and perspiration residue, not clean wool. Use cedar wood sachets, lavender bags or proprietary moth-repellent strips. Check stored garments every month or two during storage season. A single moth larvae infestation can destroy decades of investment in hours.

Have questions about caring for your Manhattan Tailors commission? Contact us — we are always happy to advise on maintenance, alterations or restoration of older garments.