How to Monogram a Suit or Shirt — Personalisation Guide

The tradition of monogramming garments dates to at least the 16th century, when royal households and noble families marked linen with their crests and initials. In bespoke tailoring, the monogram has always served both a practical purpose — identifying ownership in large households where laundry was communal — and an aesthetic one: a visible assertion of individual ownership in the most distinguished possible form. At Manhattan Tailors Hong Kong, a monogram is available on every commission and costs nothing beyond the choice itself.

Where to Place a Monogram on a Suit

The most traditional location for a suit monogram is the inside breast pocket — embroidered on the pocket facing, visible when the jacket is open but entirely hidden when worn. This is the most discreet placement and the one most consistent with the English bespoke tradition, where quality was never announced but was evident to anyone who looked carefully. The inside breast pocket monogram is our most commonly requested placement and our default recommendation for first commissions.

The inside jacket hem — embroidered on the lining near the bottom hem — is a second traditional placement, slightly less visible than the breast pocket but equally personal. Some clients prefer this placement because it is more private: the lining must be lifted to see it, making it essentially invisible except to the tailor who made the garment and the wearer themselves.

Under the collar — on the collar stand lining, visible only when the collar is turned up — is a refinement that appeals to clients who understand that quality never needs to be advertised. This is perhaps the most understated placement available and is the traditional mark used by the finest London houses on their most distinguished clients' jackets.

Monogram Placement on Shirts

Shirt monograms are more visible and more varied in their placement options. The left cuff is the classic placement for a shirt monogram — the initial or initials appear on the outside face of the cuff when the sleeve is worn normally, visible from the front with the arm at rest. This is the most commonly photographed shirt monogram placement and the one with the longest history. The chest pocket or chest placket area (for shirts without a pocket) is a bolder choice — the monogram sits over the left breast, visible immediately when the jacket is open. Above the shirt hem (on the front placket, just above the shirt hem) is the most private shirt monogram placement — visible only when the shirt is tucked out.

Initial Formats: One, Two or Three Letters

The number of initials in a monogram follows social convention as much as personal preference. Single initial (last name or most significant name) is the most traditional and, in some ways, the most authoritative — a single letter in a distinguished typeface is cleaner and more powerful than three initials competing for attention. Two initials (first name and last name, or first name and middle name) is common on shirts and waistcoats. Three initials (first, middle, last — or occasionally last in the centre, larger, flanked by first and middle in the traditional English format) is the full monogram — the most formal and the most personal. The arrangement of three initials matters: in the English tradition, the last initial is placed in the centre and made larger than the flanking first and middle initials.

Embroidery Style and Colour

The typeface and colour of the embroidery contribute significantly to the overall effect. On business suits: a restrained Roman or serif typeface in navy, burgundy, dark green or charcoal is the most distinguished choice — visible but not showy. Script and italic typefaces are warmer and more personal, popular on shirts. On shirts: white on white (same colour embroidery as the cloth) is the most discreet; a contrasting colour (navy on white, burgundy on pale blue) is more visible and decorative. We present examples of typeface and colour options at consultation and can accommodate most requests.

A monogram costs nothing to add to a Manhattan Tailors commission — it is part of our standard bespoke service. Book a consultation and we will discuss the placement, format and embroidery style that suits your commission and your taste.