Spread Collar vs Cutaway Collar — Shirt Style Guide

In a well-dressed man's wardrobe, the collar is the signature. It frames the face, determines how the tie knot sits, and signals whether the wearer has dressed with thought or habit. At Manhattan Tailors, collar style is one of the most discussed details of every shirt commission — because it is the detail that most immediately distinguishes a bespoke shirt from a retail one. Here is a complete guide to the two most popular collar styles and everything between them.

The Spread Collar: Universal and Versatile

The spread collar — also called the Windsor collar in reference to the Duke of Windsor who popularised wide collar openings — has the two collar points separated by a moderate to wide angle, leaving a generous opening at the front through which the tie knot is visible. It is the dominant collar style in modern business shirting worldwide and the most versatile option available.

The spread collar works with all standard tie knot sizes: a half-Windsor sits cleanly in the opening; a full Windsor fills it without straining; even a four-in-hand, with its asymmetric knot, looks intentional rather than lost in the wider opening. Without a tie, the spread collar frames the neck and chest open in a relaxed, contemporary way — more flattering than a narrow point collar in most smart-casual contexts.

For collar height (the depth of the collar stand), most spread collar shirts at Manhattan Tailors use a stand of 3.5–4cm, which sits comfortably above the jacket collar and shows clearly when the jacket is worn. Taller collar stands (4–4.5cm) are available for clients with longer necks or who prefer a more dramatic collar presence. The collar point length on a spread is typically 6–8cm; longer points create a more traditional appearance, shorter points are more contemporary.

The Cutaway Collar: Contemporary and Bold

The cutaway collar takes the spread concept to its logical extreme: the collar points are spread so wide that they point almost horizontally, leaving the collar opening at nearly a straight line across the chest. This dramatically exposes the tie knot — or the shirt placket in an open-collar context — and creates one of the most visually striking shirt silhouettes available.

The cutaway collar has been a staple of Italian and Continental European business dressing for decades and has gained significant ground in international professional dress since the 2010s. It works best with larger tie knots — a full Windsor in a substantial silk tie fills the very wide opening correctly and looks exceptional. A small, narrow knot in a cutaway collar looks lost and under-dressed.

Open-collar, the cutaway is striking: the wide spread and the height of the collar stand frame the neck and create a more structured, intentional open-collar look than a standard spread manages. This is why the cutaway is a particularly popular choice among clients who frequently wear their shirts without a tie — in Hong Kong's business-casual contexts, an open cutaway shirt under a suit jacket or blazer reads as deliberately well-considered.

Comparing Spread and Cutaway Side by Side

The practical differences: spread collar is the safer, more universal choice — it works with any tie knot, any occasion from business formal to smart-casual, and reads as professional and correct across all industries and cultures. Cutaway collar is a bolder choice — more fashionable and contemporary in character, outstanding with the right tie knot and the right occasion, but slightly restrictive in its tie knot requirements and more unusual in conservative business cultures (law, banking in some markets, government).

For a first bespoke shirt commission: spread collar is the unambiguous recommendation — it establishes the standard from which all other choices can depart. For a second or subsequent commission from a client who wants variety and distinction: cutaway is an excellent and highly recommended choice.

Other Collar Options

Beyond spread and cutaway, Manhattan Tailors offers: semi-spread (narrower than a spread, more traditional — preferred by clients who find a full spread too wide for their taste), pin collar (narrow spread with a collar pin that elevates the tie knot — a dressy and distinguished choice), button-down (smart-casual, never formal), and band collar (collarless — for open-collar tropical contexts). All are fully customisable in stand height, point length and interlining weight.

Book your shirt consultation at Manhattan Tailors and explore the full collar range in person — our master shirt-maker will help you identify the collar that frames your face and serves your wardrobe best.