Loro Piana vs Scabal vs Dormeuil vs Holland and Sherry: Which Suit Fabric Should You Choose?

When commissioning a bespoke suit, fabric choice is the single most consequential decision you will make. The four mills most frequently found in the fabric rooms of the finest bespoke tailoring houses -- including Hong Kong Manhattan Tailors -- are Loro Piana, Scabal, Dormeuil, and Holland and Sherry. This guide explains what distinguishes each and how to choose between them.

Quick Comparison: At a Glance

Loro Piana

Founded in Quarona, northern Italy in 1924, Loro Piana is widely regarded as the finest producer of cashmere and superfine wool in the world. The mill controls its supply chain from raw fibre to finished cloth. Best for: business suits, day suits, and smart-casual jackets. Exceptionally soft hand feel, Super 150s to Super 200s wool weights, cashmere and silk blends.

Scabal

Founded in Brussels in 1938, Scabal is known for pushing the boundaries of suiting fabric. The mill was among the first to incorporate gold thread, silk, and exotic fibres into mainstream suiting cloth. Best for: statement suits and frequent travellers. High-twist performance wools with exceptional crease resistance. Four-season cloths designed for travel and intensive wear.

Dormeuil

Founded in Paris in 1842 by Jules Dormeuil, this French heritage mill has supplied bespoke tailors across Europe and Asia for nearly two centuries. The mill signature cloth -- Amadeus -- remains one of the most recognised names in bespoke suiting. Best for: classic business suits and formal wear in navy, charcoal, and mid-grey.

Holland and Sherry

Founded in Edinburgh in 1836, Holland and Sherry has been supplying Savile Row tailoring houses since their earliest years. Strong Scottish heritage -- tweeds, flannels, and cheviots woven in traditional Scottish mills. Best for: country wear, tweed jackets, autumn and winter suits, and any garment with a traditional British aesthetic.

Which Should You Choose?

• Softest luxury fabric: Loro Piana cashmere-wool blend or Super 150s worsted
• Frequent traveller: Scabal high-twist or dedicated travel cloth range
• Classic navy or charcoal business suit: Dormeuil Amadeus
• Heritage texture and British character: Holland and Sherry tweed, flannel, or hopsack

All Four Mills Available at Hong Kong Manhattan Tailors

At Hong Kong Manhattan Tailors, all four of these mills are stocked in our fabric room. During your consultation -- at our showroom at 186 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, or at one of our international trunk shows -- you can compare swatches from all four mills before deciding. To book: info@hongkongmanhattantailors.com or WhatsApp +44 7967 175 073.

Related Reading

• Loro Piana vs Ermenegildo Zegna: Which Fabric Mill Wins?
• Full Canvas vs Fused Suits
• The Savile Row of the East: Hong Kong Bespoke Tailoring
• How to Choose a Tailor in Hong Kong