What Is Super 100s Wool? Fabric Guide for Bespoke Suits

Walk into any fabric showroom or bespoke tailor and you will encounter terms like Super 100s, Super 120s, Super 150s and Super 200s. These numbers refer to the fineness of the wool fibre — and they have real implications for how your suit looks, wears and lasts.

What the Super Number Actually Measures

The Super count is derived from the Bradford Count system, which measures how many 560-yard hanks of yarn can be spun from one pound of raw wool. Effectively, it reflects the diameter of the individual wool fibre in microns. Super 100s wool is made from fibres approximately 18.5 microns in diameter. Super 200s reaches below 13 microns — finer than the finest cashmere. As the Super number increases: fibres become finer, cloth becomes softer, the garment drapes more fluidly — but also becomes more delicate and requires more careful handling.

Super 100s: The Workhorse of Business Tailoring

Super 100s (17.5–18.5 microns) is the industry benchmark for professional business suits. It is durable enough to withstand three or four wears per week for years, holds a crisp crease well, resists pilling and responds excellently to pressing. For a client building a working business wardrobe, Super 100s is the most rational choice. It also offers excellent value — Super 100s cloth from Vitale Barberis Canonico or Reda provides a beautiful finish at a very accessible price point.

Super 120s: The Sweet Spot

Super 120s (19.75 microns) is arguably the most popular choice for bespoke suits globally. It combines genuine softness and drape with enough fibre robustness to hold up to regular wear. The cloth feels noticeably finer than Super 100s, drapes more fluidly and produces a more refined finish. Mills like Holland & Sherry, Scabal and Loro Piana produce outstanding Super 120s ranges. For most bespoke clients at Manhattan Tailors who want a suit that is both beautiful and practical for regular use, Super 120s is our most frequent recommendation.

Super 150s and Above: Luxury with Caveats

Super 150s+ produces cloth of extraordinary softness — almost silk-like against the skin. Dormeuil Vanquish II, Scabal Golden Bale and Loro Piana Tasmanian Ultra are among the most celebrated cloths in this range. However, fibre fineness above Super 140s comes with increasing delicacy — these fabrics show wear more quickly, are more susceptible to abrasion and require careful storage and dry cleaning. Super 150s+ suits are best reserved for special occasion garments worn 10–15 times per year rather than daily.

Choosing the Right Grade for Your Commission

The decision comes down to intended use, care habits and budget. Daily business suit: Super 100s–120s. Important occasion suit: Super 130s–150s. Once-in-a-decade garment: Super 150s+. Fabric weight interacts with Super count — a Super 120s tropical weave behaves very differently to a Super 120s flannel, and both have their place.

Our fabric collection covers the full range across all major mills. Book a consultation and our master cutter will guide you through the options based on your specific brief.