Which suit fabric mill is best? There is no single best mill: Loro Piana is the softest and most luxurious, Dormeuil the crispest for business, Scabal the most varied, and Holland & Sherry the most classically British. In Hong Kong, choose lighter weights and open weaves from any of them for comfort in the heat.
| Mill | Based in | Cloth character | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Loro Piana | Italy | Very soft, light, luxurious hand | Comfort, warm climates, special occasions |
| Dormeuil | France (cloth woven in England) | Crisp, firm, holds a sharp line | Structured business suits, frequent wear |
| Scabal | Belgium (cloth woven in England) | Wide range of weights and patterns | Travel suits and statement cloths |
| Holland & Sherry | United Kingdom | Classic British cloth, open summer weaves | Traditional tailoring, tweeds and summer suits |
Loro Piana vs Scabal vs Dormeuil vs Holland and Sherry: Which Suit Fabric Should You Choose?
When commissioning a bespoke suit, fabric choice is the single most consequential decision you will make. The four mills most frequently found in the fabric rooms of the finest bespoke tailoring houses -- including Hong Kong Manhattan Tailors -- are Loro Piana, Scabal, Dormeuil, and Holland and Sherry. This guide explains what distinguishes each and how to choose between them.
Quick Comparison: At a Glance
| Mill | Origin | Founded | Known For | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Loro Piana | Italy | 1924 | Cashmere and fine wool | Luxury everyday suiting |
| Scabal | Belgium | 1938 | Exotic blends, innovation | Statement and travel fabrics |
| Dormeuil | France | 1842 | Heritage wools, Amadeus | Classic business suits |
| Holland and Sherry | Scotland | 1836 | Savile Row heritage | Traditional British suiting |
Loro Piana
Founded in Quarona, northern Italy in 1924, Loro Piana is widely regarded as the finest producer of cashmere and superfine wool in the world. The mill controls its supply chain from raw fibre to finished cloth. Best for: business suits, day suits, and smart-casual jackets. Exceptionally soft hand feel, Super 150s to Super 200s wool weights, cashmere and silk blends.
Scabal
Founded in Brussels in 1938, Scabal is known for pushing the boundaries of suiting fabric. The mill was among the first to incorporate gold thread, silk, and exotic fibres into mainstream suiting cloth. Best for: statement suits and frequent travellers. High-twist performance wools with exceptional crease resistance. Four-season cloths designed for travel and intensive wear.
Dormeuil
Founded in Paris in 1842 by Jules Dormeuil, this French heritage mill has supplied bespoke tailors across Europe and Asia for nearly two centuries. The mill signature cloth -- Amadeus -- remains one of the most recognised names in bespoke suiting. Best for: classic business suits and formal wear in navy, charcoal, and mid-grey.
Holland and Sherry
Founded in Edinburgh in 1836, Holland and Sherry has been supplying Savile Row tailoring houses since their earliest years. Strong Scottish heritage -- tweeds, flannels, and cheviots woven in traditional Scottish mills. Best for: country wear, tweed jackets, autumn and winter suits, and any garment with a traditional British aesthetic.
Which Should You Choose?
- Softest luxury fabric: Loro Piana cashmere-wool blend or Super 150s worsted
- Frequent traveller: Scabal high-twist or dedicated travel cloth range
- Classic navy or charcoal business suit: Dormeuil Amadeus
- Heritage texture and British character: Holland and Sherry tweed, flannel, or hopsack
All Four Mills Available at Hong Kong Manhattan Tailors
At Hong Kong Manhattan Tailors, all four of these mills are stocked in our fabric room. During your consultation -- at our showroom at 186 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, or at one of our international trunk shows -- you can compare swatches from all four mills before deciding. To book: info@hongkongmanhattantailors.com or WhatsApp +44 7967 175 073.